I discovered the worst kind of domestic betrayal last autumn. A neat stack of logs at the back of my garden that had survived wind rain and an inquisitive neighbour for months. They had all the telltale signs of patience rewarded the greyed ends the split checks the brittle bark yet when I tried to light them they refused to catch. It felt personal. It also felt avoidable.
Why seasoned looking wood still refuses to burn
People think seasoning equals dryness and dryness equals fire. That tidy equation is comforting but incomplete. Firewood stored for months but impossible to burn is usually the result of one missed variable in that equation humidity reabsorption or internal moisture trapped deep in the heartwood. The logs may look ready on the surface but they hide water where it matters most down the centre and in the sapwood pockets.
An underestimated villain moisture rebound
Wood is not a passive object it is a living hygroscopic material that drinks and breathes with the air. A properly seasoned log will happily take on a little surface damp in a wet autumn then shrug it off when the sun returns. But if that wood was never fully dry inside in the first place the seasons will toy with it like a kitten with string. You get logs that ping against each other like dry bone yet exhale steam when placed on a hot grate. That steam is the proof. That steam is also why the fire will smoulder and choke.
The tiny storage mistake that ruins months of work
There is a small slip people rarely talk about: covering the top of a stack with a full sheet that seals the sides. The intention is pure protection from rain but the effect is catastrophic. A tarpaulin or heavy plastic laid across the top and wrapped around the sides creates a roof that prevents direct rain but kills ventilation. The logs cannot breathe. They sweat. Instead of drying, seasoned wood reverts to a damp equilibrium with the air. After months that logpile will look defended but internally it will be as soggy as new cut timber.
I say this as someone who once wrapped an entire stack in a single giant sheet and then spent a winter wondering why my stove coughed. Do not do that. Leave the sides open. Let the air have its petty victories.
Signs to spot early before you light anything
There are practical microtests that save the evening. A moisture meter reading is decisive but there are simpler checks: lift the log compare its weight to similar pieces from earlier batches. A heavy log is probably holding water. Knock two logs together; a hollow ringing sound suggests dryness while a dull thud signals retained moisture. The ends are important too if the bark peels off with resistance that is not good. Also keep an eye on odour fresh cut wood smells green and sharp while dry seasoned wood smells faintly sweet and dusty.
Why the experts insist on numbers not folklore
There is a legal and scientific thread behind these domestic irritations. Certification schemes now require wood sold in small domestic volumes to meet a moisture threshold because wet wood is inefficient and smoky. This is not a moral diktat it is basic physics turned municipal policy. As Bruce Allen CEO of HETAS said on the Ready to Burn scheme website The Ready to Burn mark helps consumers to easily identify solid fuels that are legal to burn. The quote matters because the rule is not just about heat it is about preventing avoidable emissions and stove damage.
“The Ready to Burn mark helps consumers to easily identify solid fuels that are legal to burn.” Bruce Allen CEO HETAS Ready to Burn.
When logs sit too close to walls or under eaves the wrong way
Good intention collides with architecture. People stash logs under a porch or against the garden wall expecting the roof to shelter them. But those microclimates trap humidity. Walls radiate cooler air at night causing condensation on the lower logs. Roof eaves funnel run off and windblown moisture concentrates where you least expect. The rule I now follow is simple and stubborn: logs deserve the air around them on most sides and should be raised off the ground. If you cannot give them three sides of airflow at least rotate them every month. Physically turning older logs to the outside of the stack is an unglamorous chore that pays dividends.
The choices that actually change outcomes
There are three realistic roads: do nothing and accept smoky grief; buy kiln dried Ready to Burn logs and pay a premium; or season properly and smartly. Each has moral and practical trade offs. My position is anti-shame pro-preparation. If you enjoy splitting and stacking then learn the science of airflow and humidity. If you don’t then invest in certified dry fuel and stop making a hobby out of disappointment.
Microhabits that make a stack reliable
Stack with the cut ends facing outwards to accelerate moisture loss from the ends. Raise the stack on bearers to avoid ground damp. Use a narrow waterproof cover across just the top and never the sides. If your region gets regular storms then design a lean to but leave the front open so the prevailing wind can dry the pile. Use smaller diameter logs when you need them sooner. Artfully split the larger logs they dry quicker. And for those who balk at gadgets a pocket moisture meter under 30 in cost will tell you more than folklore ever could.
Problems you will not completely eliminate
There are stubborn species and stubborn years. Some hardwoods take longer to release internal moisture and if a tree was felled in summer expect delay. The UK weather compounds this unpredictability. You cannot control the rain but you can control how you respond to it. The point is not perfection it is fewer evenings fighting weak flames and soot streaks on glass.
What to do when the logs act up
If you place a log on the fire and it hisses like an angry kettle remove it. Let it dry. Piling wet wood on a good blaze will lower combustion temperature and encourage creosote. This is not hyperbole it is the slow business of clogging a chimney. A stubborn log will show white steam not blue smoke when it finally releases its water. That steam is a confession.
Final opinion and an imperfect truth
I believe the culture around firewood is at once too romantic and too lax. We cherish image over inspection. Logs arranged like podium trophies make for nice photos but they do not guarantee warmth. Take a moment to examine not admire. Change one tiny habit by leaving the sides breathable and you will earn entire winters of reliable heat. That is tangible and unglamorous but valuable in a way that a pretty pile is not.
I will admit to bias here I like the ritual of drying splitting and stacking. I also resent paying premiums for something I can learn to do better. The point is this: with a little attention and basic tools you can prevent your firewood stored for months but impossible to burn from becoming an annual frustration.
Summary table
| Problem | Why it happens | Quick fix |
|---|---|---|
| Logs look dry but will not burn | Internal moisture and reabsorption due to poor ventilation | Check weight tap sound use moisture meter aim under 20 percent |
| Top covered stack but damp inside | Sides sealed preventing airflow leading to moisture rebound | Cover only the top leave sides open rotate stack monthly |
| Logs stored against walls | Condensation and cooler microclimate increases moisture | Raise off ground allow three sided airflow move away from walls |
| Need immediate burn | Seasoning time insufficient | Buy Ready to Burn certified kiln dried logs |
FAQ
How can I tell if firewood is truly dry without a meter
Listen and lift. A dry log will feel noticeably lighter than a fresh one of the same size. Tap two logs together and listen for a clear ringing. Smell can help too deep damp or musty odour suggests retained moisture. None of these are perfect but together they give a reliable impression that will save you a damp night.
Is covering the top of a woodpile always wrong
Not always. The top should be covered to prevent direct rain from soaking the ends but the sides must remain open. Think of a roof not a tent. A breathable roof allows evaporation while shedding rain. If you find your cover traps condensation remove it and opt for a slatted log store instead.
How long should I season different species
Expect variability. Softwoods can season in six to twelve months hardwoods often need eighteen months to two years in UK conditions. If a tree was felled in summer add time. Use small pieces if you want faster results and always split larger diameter logs to accelerate moisture loss.
When should I buy kiln dried Ready to Burn logs
Buy them when you want predictable immediate performance or when you cannot provide adequate storage conditions. These logs are tested to meet a moisture standard and are especially useful for those who rely on a stove as a primary heat source and cannot risk smoky inefficient burns.
Will wet logs ruin my stove
Wet logs reduce combustion temperature and produce more smoke and tar which can lead to faster creosote buildup in the flue. This increases cleaning frequency and can create unsafe conditions over time. Avoid adding persistently wet logs to a well burning fire.
